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Osteria · Wine bar — Piazzetta di Porto, Naples

His Majesty the baccalà

Si’ proprio nu baccalà!

From the northern seas to the Mediterranean, from Iceland and Norway to Sedile di Porto, from monarchies to the republic: the story of the most democratic of dishes, told at the table.

Saffron rice with baccalà, peppers and black olives A tureen of mussels, clams, king prawns and langoustines Baccalà with potatoes in the blue pot Spaghetti tossed in the pan

Photos © La Balena

Read the menu Baccalà menu · Osteria di Porto · Chef's tasting menus
01 — The restaurant

A historic place, where a story is told

Baccalaria was born from a passion for quality produce, focused on one special ingredient: baccalà, deeply Neapolitan yet able to stretch a thread towards Portugal, Spain and all the way to Iceland, where it is fished.

The place has its own history too. The piazzetta of Sedile di Porto takes its name from the city's ancient division into Sedili: the Porto one was tied to the harbour and to fishing, and held exclusive rights over the catch.

The architect Gurgo, a Neapolitan who has lived in Andalusia and Barcelona, turned it into an inn with a Mediterranean feel: thick walls opening between the rooms, vaulted spaces downstairs, stone stairs and the original basalt floor. Working-class and seafaring like the neighbourhood, without the clichés of “typical Naples”.

  • Osteriathe cuisine of baccalà, from tradition to the world
  • Wine bara wine list chosen with care and passion
The Baccalaria dining room: blue walls, fish prints and tavern lamps
02 — The story of baccalà

From peasant cooking to the noble table

Baccalà is cod preserved in salt. A very old technique, born to carry fish far from the seas it came from, which made it a star of many of Europe's popular cuisines.

  1. I

    The salt of the Basques

    Salting is credited to Basque fishermen: following whales to the North Sea they found huge shoals of cod towards Newfoundland, and preserved it just as they already did with whale meat.

  2. II

    The Grand Banks

    For centuries much of the world's cod came from the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and the coasts of Labrador. Today the great exporters are Iceland for baccalà and Norway for stockfish.

  3. III

    Baccalà and stockfish

    They are the same fish: baccalà is preserved in salt, stockfish is dried. Both need a long soak in cold water, to remove the salt or restore the texture.

  4. IV

    Mussillo and pancetta

    In Naples you choose the cut: the mussillo, the thick, fleshy upper part with only the central bone, for main courses, fried or marinated; the pancetta, bonier, for pasta dishes or fried, to be eaten strictly with your fingers.

Baccalà is not a fish, it is a food in its own right, without equal

Here we serve the true “Neapolitan-style baccalà”

The Academy →

House specialities

Aubergine and baccalà parmigiana

Aubergine and baccalà parmigiana

Two traditions meet: the strength of the land and the mystery of the sea. Served in the traditional “boccaccio” jar, to keep all its flavours.

Baccalà carpaccio

Baccalà carpaccio

First-rate ingredients for those who take life head-on, with lightness and harmony, even at the table.

Grand baccalà fry

Gran fritto

A classic among classics: baccalà at its best, fried in several ways with homemade sauces.