His Majesty the baccalà
Si’ proprio nu baccalà!
From the northern seas to the Mediterranean, from Iceland and Norway to Sedile di Porto, from monarchies to the republic: the story of the most democratic of dishes, told at the table.
Photos © La Balena
A historic place, where a story is told
Baccalaria was born from a passion for quality produce, focused on one special ingredient: baccalà, deeply Neapolitan yet able to stretch a thread towards Portugal, Spain and all the way to Iceland, where it is fished.
The place has its own history too. The piazzetta of Sedile di Porto takes its name from the city's ancient division into Sedili: the Porto one was tied to the harbour and to fishing, and held exclusive rights over the catch.
The architect Gurgo, a Neapolitan who has lived in Andalusia and Barcelona, turned it into an inn with a Mediterranean feel: thick walls opening between the rooms, vaulted spaces downstairs, stone stairs and the original basalt floor. Working-class and seafaring like the neighbourhood, without the clichés of “typical Naples”.
- Osteriathe cuisine of baccalà, from tradition to the world
- Wine bara wine list chosen with care and passion
From peasant cooking to the noble table
Baccalà is cod preserved in salt. A very old technique, born to carry fish far from the seas it came from, which made it a star of many of Europe's popular cuisines.
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The salt of the Basques
Salting is credited to Basque fishermen: following whales to the North Sea they found huge shoals of cod towards Newfoundland, and preserved it just as they already did with whale meat.
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The Grand Banks
For centuries much of the world's cod came from the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and the coasts of Labrador. Today the great exporters are Iceland for baccalà and Norway for stockfish.
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Baccalà and stockfish
They are the same fish: baccalà is preserved in salt, stockfish is dried. Both need a long soak in cold water, to remove the salt or restore the texture.
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IV
Mussillo and pancetta
In Naples you choose the cut: the mussillo, the thick, fleshy upper part with only the central bone, for main courses, fried or marinated; the pancetta, bonier, for pasta dishes or fried, to be eaten strictly with your fingers.
Baccalà is not a fish, it is a food in its own right, without equal
Here we serve the true “Neapolitan-style baccalà”
House specialities
Aubergine and baccalà parmigiana
Two traditions meet: the strength of the land and the mystery of the sea. Served in the traditional “boccaccio” jar, to keep all its flavours.
Baccalà carpaccio
First-rate ingredients for those who take life head-on, with lightness and harmony, even at the table.
Gran fritto
A classic among classics: baccalà at its best, fried in several ways with homemade sauces.
Press
Restaurant of the year in Il Mattino's Mangia&Bevi awards, and press reviews.
I Baccalajuoli
The Neapolitan Baccalà Academy: meetings, dinners and culture around the most democratic of dishes.
The Academy →